Dhow Sailing Trip - Aboard a traditional sailing boat
Captain Sheikh from Lamu (Kenya) answers all questions about sailing with a dhow, a traditional sailing boat - and tells us what we need to know for the great sailing adventure from Lamu to Zanzibar.
Captain Sheikh on the dhow Fatulkheir, Lamu (Kenya)
What is a dhow?
A dhow is a traditional wooden sailing boat built since ancient times and used primarily in the Indian Ocean. Over the centuries, European influence has changed the design of the boats. But still particularly characteristic: the triangular sails. Modern dhows are still being built today, for example on Lamu, a culturally rich Swahili island off the coast of Kenya. There, Captain Sheikh explains more about the special nature of this sailing boat and what a multi-day sailing trip can look like.
Captain Sheikh is from Lamu and describes himself as a "typical island boy".
About the Lamu Dhow Fatulkheir
Captain Sheikh operates the dhow Fatulkheir, which was built in Lamu over 30 years ago. In the past, the dhow was used as a cargo boat and mainly transported mangrove wood. In the meantime, mainly tourists are bustling about on the boat. Captain Sheikh offers trips around Lamu, but also multi-day sailing adventures. Together with travel otherways we sail with his crew for example from Lamu to Zanzibar and from Zanzibar to Lamu. The dhow Fatulkheir is a traditional Lamu style sailing boat and was completely restored in 2022. By the way, the word Fatulkheir means “the door to success”
The different dhow styles: Lamu style vs. Mozambique style
There are different styles of dhows. The most common in the East Africa region are Lamu-style dhows and Mozambique-style dhows.
Lamu-style dhows are usually quite narrow and are used in sailing competitions, for example, because they are fast and manoeuvrable.
In comparison, Mozambique-style dhows are slightly wider and more snug. The shape is reminiscent of a turtle and the boats are very stable in the water.
The dhow Fatulkheir is a Lamu style dhow where the rear part of the boat is slightly wider because it was built as a cargo boat. The additional space is now being used for a roof terrace and a toilet.
How many people can travel on the dhow Fatulkheir?
On day trips, up to 25 people can board the Fatulkheir dhow. On longer trips, there is enough space for up to six guests. With the captain and crew we are a maximum of nine people. So we have enough space to sleep and enough storage space for luggage, food and water.
By the way: the sizes of dhows vary greatly. There are mini dhows for one person and huge sailing boats. The Dau Fatulkheir is in the midfield.
Where do we sleep during the sailing trip?
On the sailing trip from Zanzibar to Lamu or from Lamu to Zanzibar we will spend at least one night on the open sea and sleep under the open sky on the sailing boat. If we anchor on the coast, guests can either stay overnight on board or check into a hotel or guest house at their own expense.
On board we lay out comfortable, waterproof mattresses with covers. Guests can sleep in either the front or middle area - and when there’s no waves, they can also sleep on the roof terrace. The captain and crew sleep in the back of the boat.
By the way: You only go on board with clean feet and without shoes. Because otherwise small grains of sand would scratch the wood.
Are we protected from sun and rain?
A sunshade, which is pulled up over the whole boat, protects us from the sun. If it should rain (the chances are very low during the travel season), we can stretch an additional rain cover. We are then like in a small hut.
Advice: If you have enough time, you should put the sailing trip at the end of your trip. So you've been already used to the climate and sun for a while. Because despite sun protection, you get a lot of sun, especially from the reflection of the water.
Can we be attacked by pirates on the way from Lamu to Zanzibar?
The security situation between Lamu and Zanzibar is very good. The entire coast is guarded by security officers and in the open sea the navy keeps its eyes open.
The likelihood of boats being attacked by pirates, as can happen in Somalia, for example, is very low. Captain Sheikh and his crew have never heard of a case.
Can the sailboat be attacked by sharks?
You don't need to be afraid of sharks. The boat is big and stable enough.
Where can we go to the toilet and where is the shower?
We do it fisherman style. At the end of the boat is a small, cozy wooden bathroom. Here you can use the toilet (everything ends up directly in the water) and shower (a water tank is attached above). Also: If everything should be too much for you, you can simply close the door behind you and relax with a power nap.
Where is the kitchen?
The captain's cabin doubles as the kitchen. Here the captain and crew prepare the food. There is enough space for a grill and a gas cooker.
And what's on the menu?
In the morning pancakes, toast or omelets will be offered. And otherwise a lot of Swahili food. Coconut rice, chapati (a flat, delicious bread), matoki (cooked bananas) and of course: lots of seafood and fish. You can expect tuna, queenfish, kingfish, calamari, lobster and octopus and if we are lucky we will catch our own fish. Sounds delicious, doesn't it?
Do you have more questions? Feel free to contact me and I'll get in touch with Captain Sheikh directly.
You can find all upcoming sailing trips from Lamu to Zanzibar and from Zanzibar to Lamu here: