Lamu holiday: 6 tips for a more sustainable stay on the island in Kenya
A sailing trip in the archipelago, the best coffee on the island, a very special way to explore Lamu and why local restaurants, accommodation and shops are always better.
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A sailing trip on Lamu: It could hardly be more climate-friendly and relaxed.
Sailing around Lamu
Sailing trip to Manda Toto. Captain and crew prepare our lunch.
One thing you simply can’t miss while on Lamu: a sailing trip. The archipelago cannot be explored in a more climate-friendly way. And not more relaxed either. The only question is: where to?
If you only have a few days on Lamu, you can book a sunset cruise on a traditional sailing boat. For two hours you will sail along mangroves and the beautiful Manda Beach with a view of the Indian Ocean and the setting sun. If you have more time, you should do a day tour (or even stay overnight). My favourite: A sailing trip to Manda Toto. A small island that can be reached through the mangrove channel or the open sea. Here you can snorkel through corals, discover lots of colorful fish and if you’re lucky (like we were when I did the trip) you will even see dolphins. Enjoy the most delicious Swahili food on a beautiful beach - and all this, almost without other tourists.
Best fair trade coffee in Lamu
Garden of La Dulce Toro Cafe
Kenya is known for its good coffee. But only a few can prepare it really well. Among them: The La Dulce Toro Cafe in a small alleyway in Lamu Old Town. A bit difficult to find, but worth the search. Joshua and the crew are experts in the coffee field and share their knowledge of production and cultivation with a lot of passion and a big smile. They offer delicious fair trade coffee from Kenya in all variations. Especially delicious: the cold brew coffee, which is particularly refreshing in the shady garden of the cafe.
The coffee beans are also available in nice packaging to take away – an ideal gift.
If you don't feel like cold brew, cappuccino & co, you can also immerse yourself in the culinary culture of Lamu Old Town and try the spicy Swahili coffee, which is prepared with cardamom and ginger. You can get it almost everywhere in the streets of Lamu from the afternoon on. It is served in small glasses for very little money.
A very special hike: Around the whole island in one day
The trek around Lamu is sweaty and long. But it's worth it. The picture was taken somewhere between Matondoni and Kipungani.
If you want to explore the island in a very special way, you can set off on foot early in the morning. However, it is best not to go alone, but with a guide, because the island is not designed for hikes and some places can only be explored during low tide. I did the trek in July 2022, in the rainy season. There was only a small shower, but cooler temperatures than in the high season. From Lamu Town we went over sandy paths to the small coastal town of Matondoni. From there through the mangroves to the even more remote village of Kipungani. Over the dunes we eventually reached the dreamlike Kizungu Beach, where we were just able to fill up our water supplies before the bar closed. Afterwards we walked 12 km along the wild beach until we reached Shela for sunset. Here only the last part back to our starting point was waiting for us.
We walked a total of 37 km - most of it over sand. You should only do the hike if you are fit enough, never hike alone and be well informed about the tides.
Feel free to contact me if you are interested.
Local food in Lamu
Fresh tuna, chapati and salad with local vegetables and fruits
There’s plenty of restaurants in Lamu. From luxury cuisine to local food, everything is there. The dishes at Peponi, Majilis & Co. are of course particularly excellent. But instead of leaving a lot of money in these fancy restaurants, I would always go for the local version instead. This has several advantages for you, the locals - and the climate.
Small local restaurants mostly use local products. Instead of imported Nutella, there are mangoes and bananas, instead of pasta from Italy, chapati from the stone slab. Regional products support the local economy. At the same time, fewer products are imported, which has a positive effect on the climate.
Local food is delicious and family recipes have been passed down for generations. Plus: Local restaurants only survive if the quality is high. They are not designed for tourists who leave the island after three days, but for residents. Who, if the food wouldn’t taste good, would just go somewhere else. A busy local restaurant is a better indicator of quality than Google & TripAdvisor could ever offer.
And then of course: The money goes directly to those who need it - and not to the management of high-priced restaurants.
I am happy to share my favorite restaurants upon request.
Local accommodation & shops in Lamu
Slow Fashion: Cansev at a tailor in Lamu Old Town
The situation is similar for accommodation and shops. There’s something about chic beachfront overnight stays, but in the end it’s more sustainable if you’re aware of who’s managing the place and where your money on accomodation goes. In Lamu there are some home stays, locally run guest houses and even camping opportunities where the money goes directly to the local population - and which are far more authentic than isolated beach shacks.
Instead of a shopping marathon through chains and expensive brand stores (of which there are actually few here), you can also make very conscious decisions and ask questions. Under what conditions are products manufactured, where does the money go? Luckily, Lamu already has some real best practices, such as Natural Lamu.
Incidentally, slow fashion is also wonderful here: there are a few second-hand shops, and tailors can give your old or new clothes a new look with just a few cuts.
How to travel to Lamu
With a small propeller plane from Lamu to Mombasa. In the water: Kinyika Rocks
Those who are concerned about safety in Lamu will also be concerned about how to get there. In general it is not recommended to travel to Lamu by land and to take a plane instead. Personally, I have traveled a number of times from Lamu to Malindi and from Lamu to Mombasa by bus, taxi and matatu (a small local bus). Everything went well and we arrived safely. But it could also just have been luck. There were a few incidents on the mainland in December 2022, which is why my advice at the moment is to take the plane – even if it means emitting more CO2 in the air.
A few tips to be a little more climate-friendly on the road despite everything:
Many planes from Mombasa or Nairobi do not travel directly to Lamu, but with stopovers where you stay on the plane (e.g. via Malindi). Direct flights are always more climate-friendly than flights with stopovers. Therefore: Make sure that you book a direct flight from Mombasa or Nairobi to Lamu.
The duration of the flight is also reflected in the CO2 balance. From Nairobi you can travel to Mombasa or Malindi with more climate-friendly means and fly to Lamu from there. For example, there is a train between Nairobi and Mombasa with great views of Tsavo National Park.
Travel with little luggage, for example only with hand luggage. This not only has a positive effect on the climate, but also on your wallet. Because some airlines (e.g. Jambojet) charge a small fee for checked baggage.
A very special kind of arrival and departure: a sailing trip. Travel otherways offers sailing trips from Lamu to Zanzibar and from Zanzibar to Lamu. But we also organize shorter trips, for example from Wasini, Mombasa or Kilifi to Lamu.
Need help booking? Feel free to get in touch!
You want to travel to Lamu? Get in touch with me so we can plan your trip together in a responsible and sustainable way.